We are leaving Thimphu, making our way to Punakha. The highway is one tight curve after the other, steep drop offs, though on this road there are usually guard rails. Kinzang is a great driver – slow and patient, so all journeys with him are pleasant and easy.
We stop first in Dochula Pass (3100m). There are clouds at this time of year, so no views to the Himalayas – but none the less a lovely view. There is a memorial stupa (Dochula) here – in memory of the one and only military activity. They rounded up the rebels from India hiding out in Bhutan, causing trouble in Bhutan, and returned them to India. (They probably did not do too well in India!)
On this spectacular road again to go to Chimi Lhaklang – a temple of fertility. Women and couples come for blessings in order to conceive. We arrive at 12:30 PM – so our hike to the temple is hot!
Walking through the village there are numerous shops selling carved penis and traditional paintings. Neither are appealing, so I don’t go in. I enjoyed seeing the training centre for traditional arts, including painting, but the paintings themselves are too set for me.
We walk on the raised path through the rice fields. Here they get 2 crops of rice, and the harvest has begun. We see a group that has cut several fields and are now threshing bundles by hand – beating on tree stumps. Then the rice is gathered in a shallow D shaped basket and winnowed into a pile of rice – the chaff you can see in the wind blowing off. This is red rice.
We have a great lunch in the starting village. Really nice selection, with differences, and well prepared.
We are off to Punakha. The drive through the mountains with the valley and now the river below continues to amaze.
We stop to tour the Punakha Dzong, also referred to as the Fortress. Built originally in the 17th C I believe, and just recently rebuilt after the flood of 1996. It is both the administrative and religious centre for the area. The building is more than impressive. It really makes you believe you could defend your world here. It was apparently built in 2 years – as invasion from Tibet was expected.
Oh my – I forgot to write about one of the best sights on the way to Chimi Lhaklang – a little boy (about 4) fishing in the irrigation stream. He was so intent he would hardly knowledge us. He’s crouched down, with a stick about 12″ – 14″ , with a string about the same length – and no hook but a small rock! Benet and Rob you really need to see this!
To the hotel – Four Boutique. I have an immense room – I guess really a suite. It seems so wasteful. I definitely need a shower! There are a few things living in the room with me – a very small lizard / gecko and later I notice a black bug / beetle over 1″. I really hope the later doesn’t hitch a ride home. A bit of a rest , and I meet up with Jamyang and Kinzang for dinner. Definitely an uninspired dinner – Jamyang says the guides and drivers find these foreign style buffets really boring. Sad – I think we really could inspire better.
I have a bit of a problem sleeping – but it is nice and quiet. Also a beautiful view over the river.
Another great day. The dzong especially has left an impression on me today. It’s majesty – but also the power intended remains.