This was my last full day in Bhutan. Even today, writing this day from my journal makes me a bit sad. But like that day, I know as I write that I have a great day / write ahead!
Up very early after only 3 hours of sleep. This will make a long day! The hotel has packed us a breakfast box which we will have at the cafe part way up.
The drive in the dark, especially through the forest with trees close to the road, is a lovely way to begin. (We are going to Ramthangka, the base / parking at 2200 m. We arrive just before 5:30AM) There is just one other car here. I get us all into limbering up exercises, which seem to delight the dogs no end.
We are off on our climb. I had not realized most will be on packed dirt – not steps – yeah.. I will go at a very slow, but steady pace. I count off steps and then take a quick break – deep breathing. I don’t feel too badly. Legs all good, just occasionally heart beat up and a bit dizzy. But this all steadies, and I just keep my head down and walk on. The hardest this far is where there are ridges of dirt / mud between the steps. The sky is overcast and clouds so we may not get a view today. (Later when the sky clears, and I see the steep cliffs of Tiger’s Nest I am glad I didn’t see them until I am almost there!)
We stop at the cafe for tea and our breakfast snack. We are not quite 1/2 way – but apparently it gets easier.
I just continue my slow, steady pace.
As we complete our uphill climb the clouds clear to see Tiger’s Nest. Oh my! It is a staggering place. The sheer cliffs below. But now the hardest part of the trip – down hundreds of steps – switchback – with a total drop below! I hold onto the railing all the way – I am really not too comfortable with this type of height. But not stopping now having come this far, and I’ve been getting used to things with some of the roads I’ve taken.
So, down, down. Then we cross a short concert bridge. The cliffs here looking up are so, so breath taking. The waterfall spectacular. Now the steps up to Tiger’s Nest – a stone wall along the down side – yeah. Check all cameras, cell phones etc., and enter Tiger’s Nest. (We are at 3100 m) Nine temples, all different, and mostly small, intimate temples.
After all the temples we walk (Jamyang and me) out to the edge of the walkways to scatter Mom and Chuck’s ashes. There’s a stone wall chest high. Mom’s first. Some ashes I have to tap out onto the stone wall. I blow the ashes to the mountains below Tiger’s Nest! I use the welcome scarf that Sangay gave me to brush the last ashes to the wind. Repeat each step with Chuck’s ashes. This is such an amazing place. I’m glad I am here, and to do this. Ohm – 3 times, but quietly, as this is not a Buddhist sound I think. Jamyang helps and says prayers. He’s a great partner for this.
We start down. The dreaded steps all now up, so easier. Also set up my steady, slow pace with measured stops, and going is fine. Sun out now, so glad we started early as we have only a short while in the sun. (Later, tourist says he likes to start at 3PM so that they descend in the dark – hope he only means dusk.)
We stop for lunch at the cafe, but already this steady downhill is not making my knees feel good! They are sore, but I am being very careful they do not become injured! This long descent continues to be difficult, though only for knees – I can set up a better pace! But still it takes a lot of time as my 2 preferred methods of descent are ‘cat tracking’ or side walking down. When we get to the section with the lumps between the steps it becomes a bit more difficult even!
But finally we are down. The end of my final adventure in Bhutan. Even from the parking lot (Ramthangka) you can now see Tiger’s Nest – it is formidable! Jamyang and I chat the last way about my experience at Tiger’s Nest? The journey, so slow and steady, the difficult down steps, makes the magnificence of Tiger’s Nest so complete. I am ready, sort of, when I arrive at the parking lot. Not ready, as in I ‘know’ but ready as in ‘what is coming’? The sheer industriousness to build this? Are we people all so crazy – to think of something and then to do all to make it be? Yes, yes I am glad of this adventure.
I do a pretty serious round of stretches to try to ease my body, especially my knees – which will be OK.
(The round trip, including visiting the temples and scattering ashes – 8 hours. Average time 5?)
To the hotel to rest and pack. I write letters to Kinzang and Jamyang. I also prepare gifts for each. Kinzang my spin casting gear. Jamyang my bandage supply and my river shoes – he’ll need them to retrieve the many lures we tourists are likely to use. I rest a bit. I’ll pack after dinner.
I meet up with Kinzang and Jamyang to give my gifts and letters. I was not sure about the river shoes – but all seem well received. We talk some of our time together. I get them to mark my map of Bhutan. I wanted this last time together, just we three, before meeting Sangay and her husband at the draft brewery for beer (which even Kinzang has!), and once again way too much food! But delicious all. I especially enjoy this one peanut dish.
Goodbyes. Hopefully to meet again. The hotel to pack – until about 10:30. I have just enough room with both suitcases expanded. I won’t be able to pack my jacket in hot Thailand. Good thing I gave away some fishing gear. I get to bed just before 11PM and will be up at 5AM.
My last full day in Bhutan. How amazing a day it has been. Chuck would likely have had a hard walk to Tiger’s Nest, but he so, so would have loved this – the magnitude of it – the sheer cliff. And I too have loved all this long day. I feel ready to leave Bhutan – though too if I was not leaving I would feel ready to stay. But having these 30 days has been wonderful. Sangay and I spoke of this.
At dinner we relive many of our days and adventures. When asked, I say my most favourite were 2 things – the colours of Bhutan most especially rice fields and red chilies drying on the roof tops – and the rivers of Bhutan. Almost every night I slept to the amazing sounds of rivers, and even little creeks.
I have been trying to do my yoga every morning facing east and watching the sun rise over the mountains. My house faces east / west. I think I will try to continue this – and most especially outside.
As I so often write – another great day!