I decide I will ask if we can leave today. I am too tired to do this again tonight. Up at 5:15. A quick splash of water for my face and brush my teeth. I try to light a fire – the main room is cold for sure! But the little few matches left for us are useless. About 6AM I head out to walk – too cold to sit. But the general store is open and I buy new matches. $ 5 NU – no money on me but she seems to accept I’ll be back. Back, and I buy a second box – my donation to Merak. I try to start the fire again but it won’t take, even with a bit of kindling. Host shows up and lights it easily – with a fire starter liquid. Takes some time, but it does start to warm up.
Jamyang is up & then Kinzang – about 7AM. After our first tea I ask about leaving. There are options if we leave today for the rest of the itinerary – but we will definitely leave today. I am at a loss to explain why, and am tired and emotional. I also don’t want to share all my thoughts with Jamyang as I am really not sure of their validity. After much discussion with Jamyang I simply ask that he insure Sangay understands I am OK for whatever her plans on this change will be.
Breakfast. Pack up and we are off. The school is closed today as it is Saturday, so no stop there. The weather is amazing – a clear, clear blue sky. I’m tired but it feels this is a good move for me!
Highlights: First stop is the small river at the bottom of this valley. I want to wet my feet in a Himalayan stream / river. The stop is lovely and a short walk to the river. It’s not too cold, so not glacier fed. Shoes off. A bit of a paddle. There is a log pedestrian bridge and both Jamyang and Kinzang walk to the middle for pictures. It really feels lovely to have my bare feet in water! The Himalayan larch trees are everywhere – maybe I’ll plant one.
Around a corner on the road and a herd of yak are in the road, fortunately with a herder. This will likely be the last yak I see.
Just shortly after this, through the construction camp, we come around a bend, and the beautiful snow capped Himalayas of Bhutan are to the north. They are magnificent. We are very fortunate to have a clear day and this view. We spend a long time looking, taking pictures. Comments – I feel mine are sometimes trite – and I think Jamyang in particular is quite taken with these sacred mountains. He is quite sure one of the mountains is the tallest, un-climbed mountain in the world.
We start watching for the scarecrows as we did not get a picture of the middle one on the way up. Almost miss it, but I see it. They are so amazing these 3. There is a big discussion with us, as I am sure if we stop anyone on this stretch of road and inquire of the name of the person that made these scarecrows, that everyone will know. They assure me this will not be so. Shortly we see a woman of the side of the road, and to humour me we stop to inquire. She (Dechen Choden) has made the umbrella scarecrow, and her brother – Jigme – the archer. The 3rd unknown. I think Jamyang & Kinzang are quite astounded that she is one of the makers. I am not. Artists are known people – and these scarecrows are art, with great care, skill, and humour. Dechen tells us ‘the archer’ has kept the crows from this rice field very successfully for 2 years. I am so happy to have run into her. She is here, sitting by the side of the road, with a small stash of rocks to throw at the monkeys that come to eat the rice, and make a general mess of the fields. Such a delightful meeting.
(The snow capped mountains follow with us for many miles as we travel.)
We stop for tea just in a grass area to the side of the road. I have been hearing the sound of insects as the car goes – but when we stop – the sound is unbelievable! It is well over the safe decibels!! I exaggerate now. My ears are ringing though. Cicadas. They are on the tree trunks in thousands.
We have come back down to my beloved rice fields – terraces everywhere – and once again on the far mountains. The colours. The use of every bit of possible land. Terraces, such hard work, and probably generations old!
Back at the usual hotel in Trashigang a day early. But all OK. I get settled, I really want the windows open as there is a lovely breeze. No screens on 2 out of 3, but I open them regardless as I have encountered no bugs yet (except the large black beetle in the bathroom).
I am asleep by 3:30PM. I wake briefly at 5PM. Back to sleep. Jamyang calls at 8PM to see if I want dinner, but I just want to sleep. I do. Wake about 11PM and I am wondering if I’ll have to read or write as I have now been sleeping for 7 1/2 hours. But I fall back to sleep and wake at 5:15AM! Amazing and wonderful.
This day has been so good. I have been tired all day, but each of these special things has carried me perfectly through: the river – the snow capped mountains – the maker of the scarecrows – the cicadas. I am so very glad I decided to come back today, even if this is justification for my decision. Hope I have not created too much extra work for Sangay and Jamyang.