First stop – the bank. Weaving money required. I use the ATM. Second stop the Post Office. More stamps and mailing post cards. The post master speaks excellent English, though Jamyang translates too. I think he and the assistant quite happy to be mailing these off to Canada! Me too.
We are driving into the mountains, of course along the river, climbing then descending to the village of Radhi (Rabi) – known for fine weaving. A stop first at a monastery. Quiet a large one. We have a tour of the temple with a monk that has some English – though he and Jamyang have long, long conversations on elements in the temple. We start by walking 3 times around the temple before entering. I like this. The monk has been in the monastery for just 1 1/2 years. He was married – with 3 children – the oldest now in the monastery having just completed his grade 12. He and his wife are divorced, and I assume the other 2 children are with her. I’m conflicted about what I feel about this – like I am with Gandhi. It feels that to take this path to ‘enlightenment’ is to give up, to no longer need attachments, that this means his family, his children too. And always I think – what does responsibility mean? And too this seems like such a path really for men. Ah! The view here is lovely, of the village & valley. Pictures, including with the monk.
To the village of Radhi. There has been a death in the area, so most of the villagers have gone to this home. But there is one family home – and she is a weaver. There is a back strap loom on the porch. Her name is Norbu and she is working on an intricate pattern for a kira – and on commission! Great news. They invite us in. Daughter is 2 – Tenzin Thinley Wangmo and husband – Dorji Gyelthen. We have tea and snacks (roasted rice, a huge cucumber, walnuts and peanuts). I am able to see some of her work and buy a shawl. It is plain weaving, with no pattern, so quite inexpensive. All natural dyes. I’ll have to wash it when I get home to soften it – as it is raw silk – and she has not done this. But I do not need to pound it. (Softening turns out to be quite difficult and pounding goes seem to be a part of it.) Jamyang gets Norbu to show the plants she uses for the dyes. We sit and visit for some time. So hospitable. The little girl Tenzin is quite taken with me – the unique stranger. We play some – tapping each other’s head with a leaf. She is so playful. They have 4 children – the eldest a daughter in second year geology in India. One away to high school, the 3rd in the community school. Pictures and we are off back to Trashigang.
We stop in Rangjung and get out to walk the town. Stop for ice cream at a bakery. The bakery makes pastries – black forest cake & petit four cakes (larger). It is unfortunate the baker has so few customers and he says that now all the bakeries in town have copied him. I suggest he try to sell these to the hotels in Trashigang. I doubt this is an idea that makes much sense. He gives Jamyang and me a candy – turns out to be bubble gum! This is like being a kid again- cracking gum, blowing bubbles, walking around. Jamyang and I agree you need at least 2 pieces of gum to get a really good bubble! And how the heck did knowing exactly how to use bubble gum move around the world – even to Bhutan?
Off we go back to Trashigang. We decide we will go out to dinner to a restaurant in town and order a la carte. We meet up at 6:30 and down this crazy hotel road (driveway) into town. A small restaurant – locals I’d say usually. Beer. Quiet different dishes. Beef fried rice. Chicken noodles. Stir fried chard (my request for more veg). Rice. Momo. These are delicious and I even manage to use chili paste with them. The local dog ‘Tiger’ seems to get fed here, so comes in carefully. The other dogs hang about outside. One has a terrible would on one eye – likely fighting. There are 3 young teenage girls outside on the patio dancing – well practicing their moves (choreographed) to a special song. We watch. Great fun. The dogs start barking madly when a young man arrives. They obviously don’t like him, or maybe all young men. A really enjoyable evening. Momo – yum!
Off to the hotel. I read. To bed. I am sleeping fairly well. A thank-you to Jamyang for buying us dinner!