A reasonable sleep. Stretches and yoga – I really need it after yesterday! With the window open I can hear the prayer wheels and bells, the birds, and see thick cloud / fog. I am not sure which this high up.
At breakfast (good) I see Jamyang and Kinzang, so they join me. It’s all talk of yesterday. Apparently the Australians I was speaking with at the guest house in Jakar did not get to the road closure before the dynamite was set off. So, the road was impassible. They were told it would reopen in 3 hours. So they waited. Three hours later told it would not open that day / evening. It was getting dark. The driver & guide called for a car to come from Mongar and pick them up on the other side of the dynamite zone, where the rocks and boulders now completely covered the road. They had to get out of their car and scramble through the mud, over rocks and boulders, to get to the car waiting for them. In the dark – cell phones for light. About 1/2 a kilometer. I just can not imagine this. It does not seem possible that it is the couple I talked to. I thought they were not on the way to Mongar! However, they did indeed tell me that when their guide wanted to leave at 6:30 they said no – too early. And, this is what Jamyang also tells me from the guide.
I honestly don’t know if I would have taken this road if I had known. Having come through safely, I think I would – but really it’s foolish. And I am not sure Kinzang & Jamyang would have taken it had they known just how bad it would be. The only alternative – drive back to Paro – fly all 3 of us to the east – get another car – tour the east – fly all 3 back. Not so likely. I am more than concerned that Kinzang is to take this road back, by himself. I would feel so, so terrible should anything happen to him. I will speak with Ms. Sangay.
So, we are off at 9:30 to the bank to exchange money – though they won’t take used 20s. The process takes about 1/2 hour. Then we buy some plastic boots for me – I’m concerned for the mud in the small villages after yesterday!
The drive to Khoma (village) is about 3 1/2 hours. The road is good (yeah) and the scenery stunning. The river is often far below and at times with a steep drop off. We cross the river I think 3 times and so travel each time down into the valley, with now the fast running river just beside us. Then after crossing the bridge we climb again into the mountains with these lovely views. On the far side of the valleys the vegetation is dry, high almost desert like – as in the Cache Creek area. On the near side the hills are more lush with vegetation. It would likely tell the prevailing winds that bring the clouds and rain, especially in the summer / monsoon season.
We stop for tea and snacks – complete of course with my camping chair and table. The table at least has to go! It’s so quiet and peaceful high up looking down at the river and mountains all around. Jamyang says these hills have lots of animals, including snow leopards and wild boar.
We arrive at a village with the most amazing stone, layered cliffs on the far side of the river. I think they must be like the Grand Canyon – that the river has been eroding the hills for centuries. In the village, just as we are leaving, I see a woman using equipment to take skeins of yarn / wool and make them into balls, as the balls don’t knot and snag up. “Stop!” We back up and talk with the weaver. It is fine cotton thread. She shows us a piece of cloth she has for sale. Jamyang takes her phone number and we will check in with her when we come back this way.
Off to the renowned village of Khoma – some of the finest weavers in Bhutan – most especially of a very intricate pattern – all in silk. This is also the stopping off place for a 3 day pilgrimage Bhutanese take up into the mountains and a very sacred temple. No foreigners allowed, and I would not be up for a 3 day hard walk / trek.
After tea our hostess shows me many, many of the family’s cloth for sale. There are quite a few styles, cotton and silk. The most fabulous, detailed work is silk. These are about $400 – $500 CAD. They are so amazing. However, I really want to bring back cloth that I will use – and they have been woven for a kira – the Bhutanese women’s long skirt. I absolutely could not cut this cloth! So, I really could only hang it on a wall – a large wall – which I do not have. I will try to buy smaller items as gifts. I also see cotton kira which I could cut for a garment. However, I have the 2 commissioned pieces from Thimphu and I am also unclear about the traditional kira from Ms. Sangay.
After a walk through the village there is a discussion with a young woman – another weaver. The village tradition is that all the weavers come together to show their work – especially when a foreigner comes. Afterwards tea and maybe singing! So this will be tomorrow afternoon. I have a feeling my choices will be many, and my purchases difficult. I do not wish to offend.
There is a sacred rock in the village that I think has old, large vertebrae. These are also rock, but of a different type. Pictures take. Story told. Hostess says no just a sacred rock – though I am not convinced.
Dinner at 8PM – there are about 5 other guests – some from GHP Agriculture Ministry. I chat with the boss and Jamyang about many Bhutanese issues and notes. I am off to bed at 9, but stay up until 10 writing in my journal about “the great road trip”. Then I am unable to sleep – I think the review got me hyper just re-thinking it! So, a poor night’s sleep – and a mattress (on the floor) that’s too hard for my old hips.
Another lovely day. So, so different than the day before.