Up early – 6:15AM. A quick wash and ready to try milking a cow! Karma is up soon too and brings me masala tea. A bit of journal writing and we are off. I wear his rubber boots rather than Jamyang’s – good idea as I later realize his would perhaps add an odor to the car, even after a rinse off.
OK, I do manage to get a bit of milk into the container – a bamboo one with a lid. Wangchuk finishes it up. There are 4 animals in the shed – A jersey mom with a calf about 1 year – still trying to milk off of mom – but Wangchuk takes most of her milk. She is the calm cow. The black & white is apparently somewhat bad tempered, and with a 2 week old calf, likely more so, so I stay clear. The little calf is so cute. I manage to get her to leave her mom just a bit, and Wangchuk gets a rope on her and brings her over to me. She gets her lying down, and I get a good pet in – her head mostly. Really I do believe all mammals love a scratch behind the ears. This is really lovely. Outside in the fenced yard are three more cows – a mom and 2 calves – though both quite a bit older than those inside. Wangchuk makes them a mash of potatoes ( very, very small ones) and water. They tuck right in.
Now, off to breakfast – family style in the kitchen, on the floor, with all of the different dishes. I also have eggs and ask if there is any left over lentil soup from the night before? There is and it is heated. Rice, eggs, lentil soup, chili cheese, chicken, chard, and hot butter tea. I am eating way too much! Pictures taken all around , and we are off. This has been a really lovely experience. I found it very comfortable.
The day is a blur of driving on to Bumthang. Down into valleys, always with the river for company. Climbing up into the clouds – through 3 mountain passes. In the passes that delightful, cool mountain air! The road – mile after mile after mile of tight curves, usually 2 lanes, but not always. Cows on the road. Monkeys on the side of the road. We rarely get over 30 km/hour, and often less! Kinzang is a great, calm driver. (I believe I have written this before, and I will definitely write it again.) I only close my eyes once – passing on the muddy road, a recent landslide and one huge boulder in the middle of the road! It’s not the first large boulder – the size of a small car – but it seems like another slide could happen at any time! These large boulders are unnerving! But, as it is mile after mile it kind of lulls me into fearlessness of the road.
Highlights today:
Coming into Trongsa the view across the valley to the fortress is so great. I feel that no invading army would ever be able to get past or into the fortress. It is a magnificent feat of architecture & engineering, as so very many temples and dzongs & even modern buildings are in Bhutan.
Sangay has called her mother who lives in her home about 10 km past Trongsa, where Sangay also was born. We are to stop for tea. We meet Ana and Sangay’s cousin as well. Tea, biscuits, and later ara – home made. We leave with a large bottle of ara – not sure when we will drink it. I give in and eat offered unpeeled fruit – apples and Chinese pears. But could not refuse for sure.
As we come through each of the three mountain passes I am taught to say 3 times, with gusto, Lha Gaylo. On the last pass I mispronounce it so badly that Jamyang and Kinzang are laughing long & loud! In the highest pass (at 3250m) Yutong La Pass I decide to scatter a few of Mom and Chuck’s ashes. The place is not so beautiful, but it is our highest point today. I shed a few tears for sure. Jamyang is so respectful and helpful. I also leave a butter cookie (shortbread) on the stupa for an offering.
We stop for lunch at Willing Waterfall Cafe and it is quite good (mostly Indian style dishes) and with delicious shortbread cookies. I buy 1/2 dozen for the road. There is indeed a lovely waterfall behind the restaurant and gardens.
We travel now for miles up in the clouds. The finally down into Bumthang. It has been such a day. This area now – the mountains around are covered with fir & pine – remind me of home. The valleys are of course very different.
The lodge – Jakar Village Lodge is really wonderful. We are greeted with hot towels for our face & hands. Then hot lemon tea with local honey. The room is excellent – though I would prefer one double bed to the 2 singles. Oh the things we want! Dinner at 7:30. It is excellent. Starts with a delicious mushroom soup. Then rice, buckwheat noodles, mixed vegetables, and dahl. I am eating way too much!! Jamyang and I share a Red Panda beer. We will meet up tomorrow at 9:15 to go to the hospital for my 2 day checkup. But I do feel my eye is well.
To bed. I read. Charge all of my devices. Figure out the heater. The bed is a bit hard, it’s “pillow under my knees” time. A fractured sleep – but not too bad.
An excellent day for a predominantly travel day!